Padstow to Milford Haven (Dale)

We awoke to another sun drenched day with the fog nowhere to be seen. Our passage to Dale would be another long one at 11 hours but we wouldn’t be setting off until the tidal streams were favourable at 1100. So we decided to attempt the steep, overgrown path up the cliffs of the next cove at high water. The ‘path’ up the rocks and a ravine up to the South West Coastal Path at the top was more overgrown than anticipated. We gingerly tried to avoid the nettles, brambles and break through the barrier of cow parsley in our shorts and t-shirts and I was sweating profusely by the time we reached the top. Relived we had made it we both started breaking out in large weals across our arms and legs.

We had an hours’ walk along the coast path, enjoying the views down into the various coves that dot the coast. After initially thinking it was nettle stings the weals got larger and became painfully itchy which we assume were caused by the cow parsley. 

We descended back to the cliff and met a fellow sailor on the small beach below who was about to make the same ascent. Warnings issued we headed back to the boat for antihistamine and lotion to ease the itching covering our limbs.

The passage north to Wales was blessed with glorious sunshine, although no wind, the whole way and we spent much of the trip reading and sunbathing on deck. The only distraction along the way as a pod of dolphins which escorted us for hours darting to and fro around Sulaire’s bow - dashing off to chase a shoal of fish before returning to their sentinel duties.

As we approached Milford Haven there was a crackle over the VHF “Sulaire, Sulaire, Sulaire…this is Castlemartin Range Control”..bugger, I had dismissed the range being operational at this time of night. We were requested to divert west and duly did so for 5nm before heading north into Dale as the sun set. We would have been within our rights to refuse to alter course but it would only add another 20 minutes to our passage and range control were friendly with their request so we complied.

A quick stroll ashore in the dimming light, and a Bea poo or two lighter, we headed back to Sulaire to turn in for the night with the ‘boom…boom’ barrage of the Castlemartin firing range reverberating around the bay…night…night.

St Ives Bay to Padstow

 

We emerged into the sunshine of St Ives Bay after the fog of the night before and jumped in the dinghy for a walk ashore before our passage to Travose Head near Padstow. After an hour or so on passage the fog started to close in around us and as we rounded Travose Head we couldn’t see more than 50m in front of us. 

We carefully followed the chart plotter and I double checked this with the radar. As I slowed into what appeared on the chart to be the anchorage the RNLI mooring buoy suddenly appeared dead in front of us with the headland rearing out of the fog. Into reverse, I slowed Sulaire and quickly became confused as the chartpotter froze. Adding to this confusion was the laughter of children echoing around the cliff face like some ghastly scene from a 1970s horror film. Back to the trusty magnetic compass to confirm which way we were heading. Once we had our bearings we decided that dropping the hook where we couldn’t see around us wasn’t the best idea so plan B was an hour further along the coast to Porth Quin.

After 10 minutes we were back in sunshine which aided our passage across Padstow Bay as we zig-zagged through pot buoys too many to count (but helpfully all were flagged making them much easier to see). An hour later we dropped the anchor in a beautiful cove with another yacht in the next cove. Our attempt to land ashore was thwarted by the sheer cliffs but it did look possible at low water - which we would try in the morning…night…night.

Scilly Friends for a week and heading back home

 

 

After a week exploring the Isles of Scilly on our own we were joined by Paul and Sam who come over on the Scillionian from Penzance. She’s a beautiful old girl who cuts a lovely line through the water with her classic shape. Unfortunately she is overdue to be replaced by a more modern model but for now she is a welcome sight, as are her cargo of playmates.

Over the next week we jointly explored the delights of Bryher, Tresco, St Mary’s, St Martin’s, St Agnes, Gugh and Samson islands. All with their own special characters from uninhabited Samson, which lost her last couple of families in the early 20th century, to St Martin’s which has one of the best views from any pub anywhere at The Seven Stones Inn. Our favourite was Bryher which has managed to continue to offer locals with a feel that the island is still primarily there for their wellbeing and support whilst also welcoming in tourists.

After our week with Paul and Sam we made Sulaire ship-shape and readied her for our passage home. Our first leg was across to North Cornwall to Godrevy Point in St Ives Bay. The forecast was for very settled conditions albeit with an onshore wind which ain’t ideal for anchoring but the winds were sufficiently light to allow some sleep to be had.

Oh and it was Lou’s birthday for our crossing so a silent request was made to Neptune who was gracious in gifting us safe passage.

Onwards up the North Cornwall coast tomorrow to an anchorage near Padstow. Fingers crossed for the settled weather to continue a little longer!

In harbour, New Grimsby Sound, Tresco and Porth Loo, St Mary’s

We spent 5 nights on a mooring in New Grimsby Sound between Tresco and Bryher. The sound is probably the best anchorage in Scilly for protection from easterly winds, which we have had pretty consistently since arriving.

We have explored the truly stunning islands of Tresco and Bryher, which are less inundated with tourists, and have unique flora and fauna, picturesque coastal walks, friendly locals and great cafes and restaurants.

We did pootle round to Porth Seal, St Martins which also provides some shelter from easterly winds but the small bay was full of lobster pot buoys so we turned tail and headed back to New Grimsby.

On Friday, we decided to head over to St Marys and caught the high water south as we headed over the Tresco Sand Flats that dry at low water springs. Not fancying a mooring in the busy harbour we settled on Porth Loo to the east of the harbour and dropped the hook there.

The views from the anchorage north west to Tresco, Bryher and Samson are fantastic - nothing beats watching the sun being set alight when it touches the horizon sending a deep shimmering orange glow across the islands and waters in between.

We have visitors on Monday so a full boat clean beckons tomorrow…night…night!