Day 7 - Peel Harbour to Derby Haven Anchorage

 

With settled weather forecast, and in order to break up a long passage from Peel to Holyhead, we had a 12:30 departure planned to head around to the south east of the island. The anchorage is by the airport but the pilot guide said that noise from the airport was minimal. We were aiming to leave Peel with the last swing bridge during the first high water of the day opening at 13:00.  But a quick check with the harbour master and he said there was a risk that they would close it early given the high pressure system lowering the tidal height.

We headed out of Peel Harbour and made for Calf Sound which we should make around slack water. With a favourable wind and tidal stream we made better progress than anticipated and entered Calf Sound with the tide running against us at 1.8 knots - fine for Sùlaire to push on against.

We arrived in Derby Haven some 4 hours after leaving Peel and took a couple of attempts to set the anchor on the sand, rock and kelp seabed. The bay has a very gradually sloping bottom and we arrived just before low water so a long trip in the dinghy to the beach beckoned followed by a long haul up the sand and we were ready for our walk to Castletown. Bea enjoyed a last stretch of her legs and we enjoyed the pretty town of Castletown which was at one point the capital of the Isle of Man.  Robert the Bruce had to retake Rushen Castle, where the town takes its name from, three times during the Scots’ control of the island.

We were hoping that after our long walk there wouldn’t be such a long distance to carry the dinghy back to the water but alas it was another trek down the beach. Back on board, and after rustling up a quick smoked salmon linguine, its time to plan tomorrow’s passage to Holyhead.

Night…night!

Day 6 - Staying in port at Peel Harbour

A day of walking and sight seeing in wall to wall sunshine and southerly breezes finished with a fine meal in the Boatyard Restaurant…

Day 5 - Bangor to Peel

With a foul tidal stream in the morning for heading south we put on our walking boots and headed out along the coast from Bangor to Ballymacormick Point. Although the air was unseasonably cool the skies offered the odd glimpse of sun which lit up the patches of bluebells and sea pinks at the side of the coastal path.

Back at the boat we readied Sùlaire for the 45 nautical mile passage to Peel on the Isle of Man. Peel is subject to a cill, gate (to keep the water in the inner harbour) and pedestrian swing bridge which are only open for 2 hours either side of high water so we aimed to arrive around 2100 which meant leaving Bangor at 1330.

The adverse tides pronounced by the tidal atlas and chartplotter out of Belfast Lough and past Copeland Island failed to materialise and were, in fact, favourable driving us south. With variable winds we motor sailed with genoa only in the following seas. We made good time, seeing little traffic or wildlife apart from a couple of uninterested common dolphins and arrived into Peel Bay at just after 2000. A call to the harbour master (Douglas HM as out of hours) and he confirmed that the gate would be lowered and the bridge swung at 2030. We joined a French yacht (Cavok) sitting on one of the 4 waiting mooring buoys in the outer harbour and awaited instructions to proceed.

The harbour master called us forward at 2030 and we had a spot on a pontoon finger straight ahead after entering the inner harbour. Tied-up we took a stroll in the dwindling light to stretch our legs after our passage and agreed it was a pretty port. With so much to see and explore on Mann we thought perhaps a 2 night stay would make sense…night..night.

Day 4 - Glenarm to Bangor

After an outstanding night’s sleep (you’ll note the common focus on sleep quality in this blog) at Glenarm Marina we awoke to pleasant skies and headed out for an extended forest walk with our fluffy companion to celebrate her birthday.

With a post lunch departure there was ample time to fill up the water tanks and polish the topsides to get Sùlaire ship-shape for her next passage a short hop down the coast to Bangor, in Belfast Bay. This would be our last stop in Ireland before heading over to the Isle of Man.

Our passage down was relatively short, only 4 hours, with a following wind but wind over tide for the first 1.5 hours making the journey a little bit worrying for the Fluff Mate. However, things soon settled down once the tide and wind were heading in the same direction and we turned off the engine under Genoa alone making 6-6.5 knots.

A quick call to the marina and they allocated us a berth.  The last time I was in Bangor I thought it was a rather unpleasant place but my recollection was misplaced as we topped up on food supplies and headed for a walk along the coast to the Jamaica Inn, as recommended by the marina. Unfortunately, there was no inn only oot as Jamaica was closed for the day. Ah well, back to the boat to finish off the delicious curry Lou cooked the previous day.

Another late start tomorrow to allow for favourable tides south and to time our arrival at Peel as the harbour lock gates don’t open until 2 hours either side of high water.

Day 3 - Sanda Island to Glenarm

Not the best night’s sleep at anchor in the Sanda Island anchorage as the wind gusted during the night pushing the boat to and fro’.  But we weren’t in a rush to get going this morning so jumped in the dinghy for another walk on the island trying to keep Bea out of the bracken. The last time was stopped off here she ended up shedding maltesers from her coat a couple of days later.

We set off at 10:00 with rain and light starting winds from the south expected to veer towards the NW later in the day. Ahead of schedule we suddenly had 22 knots, gusting 26 knots, as we headed out into the North Channel separating Scotland and Northern Ireland. Engine off and main and jib reefed we were on a beam reach with short sharp waves heading for Glenarm at 7-8 knots.

As we approached the Irish coast it offered some protection from the gusty conditions and the heavy clouds began to thin. A quick call to the harbourmaster confirmed we had a berth for the night and that they be there to take our lines.

As promised, as we swung into the well protected little marina at 13:45 we could see Billy and Davey waiting for us on the visitors’ pontoon. Formalities done we headed up to Glenarm Castle and gardens. Unfortunately, Bea was fido non grata so we went back to the pretty town and headed up the High Street to the forest walk. And a lovely walk it was too with our senses tingling at the scent of wild garlic and the sound of water tumbling over the rocks in the streams and river.

With a longer passage ahead of us tomorrow an early night beckons us.  

Night…night!

Day 2 - Lamlash to Sanda Island

Following some trepidation as we went to bed with the sounds of the crew of the next boat in full sea shanty mode we had a good night's sleep as they didn't burn the midnight oil.

This morning broke with a pea souper and we dug out the new electric outboard to take us, and more importantly Bea for her morning business, to shore. But er no the battery was completely flat…row ashore again.

We left Lamlash just after 10:00 into the thickening fog but weren't too worried as the forecast was for it to burn off around midday. But it didn't. We had it all the way to Sanda Island where we sit at anchor now still surrounded by the wet, fluffy stuff. Still we have the anchorage to ourselves…ah another boat has just emerged out of the murk to anchor alongside us. There could actually be a number of boats in this anchorage that we just can't see through the fog.

We had a pleasant walk over to the south side of Sanda past the 200 or so red deer that over populate the island to the rather dramatic lighthouse on that side. The island is now owned by a multimillionaire Swiss person but it doesn't look like they've been here for a few years and things are looking pretty run down. Shame, as the hotel used to be well frequented by day trippers from Campbeltown and passing yachtsmen.

Another short passage tomorrow across the North Channel to Northern Ireland were hopefully the sun will make another appearance.

Night..night!

Day One - Kip to Lamlash

We headed over to the boat yesterday with the car filled to the gunnels with supplies for our trip including clothing for every eventuality, but mostly cold, wet weather. After taking a few hours to unload and pack away enough stuff for an Atlantic crossing we settled in for a calm night's sleep at the marina.

After a few jobs, a walk for Bea and filling the water and diesel tanks we departed Inverkip at 11:50 with a very light easterly wind and overcast skies. With not enough wind to put the sails up, and no need for the steadying effect of the main sail in the very calm seas, we motored south towards our first overnight stop at Lamlash, Arran. Around midday the sun began to burn its way through the clouds and the layers of clothes were stripped off. What wind there was disappeared as gannets dove into the Firth of Clyde as we past the Isle of Bute and small rafts of razorbills drifted by. Harbour porpoises gently broke the water's surface as we came closer to Lamlash. However, I espied the First Mate comparing our course on the chartplotter to the map on her phone. She turned and asked "Are we heading for Lamlash?". The Captain looked at the screen and agreed that our plotted destination looked rather like Brodick rather than the obvious anchorage at Lamlash protected by the Buddhist owned Holy Isle.

We arrived in the 'correct' anchorage just after 1600 and picked up a mooring buoy. Log entry complete, the man in his tender arrived for our mooring dues (£10 and it won't be that cheap again until we return) and advice on local walks.

In t-shirts and shorts, we made for shore in the dinghy with Bea eagerly wagging her tail at the sight of land. An hour's walk along to the point in amazing May sunshine and warmth past Barnacle Geese, swans, a heron, and pretty birds a couple in camouflage outfits and big cameras were taking photographs of before Bea shooed them away.

We had dinner on board Sulaire as the sun set and we couldn't quite believe how lucky we were with the benign conditions for the start of our journey south…and we did think why we were heading to areas of limited anchorage and crammed marinas when we had such sailing grounds on our doorstep…but it is an adventure after all…night night.