Fishguard to Pwllheli

We had a very settled night at anchor in Lower Town with the wind barely registering on the instruments. We took advantage of not having to set off too early the next morning to briefly walk the third mate around the pretty little harbour of Lower Town with its eccentric little yacht club.

A couple of yachts had already stolen a march on us by the time we got back to Sulaire and we readied for our trip north east to Pwllheli. As we prepared to lift the anchor it started raining. What! I don't think we had taken out our foul weather gear since we left Sanda Island off the Mull of Kintyre. On they went and up came the anchor and we headed out of Fishguard harbour.  The wind had started to increase with the onset of rain and mainsail and jib were deployed. Contrary to what was forecast, the wind steadily increased from the south to 24 knots. Engine off we were skooting along at 7.5 knots with the following wind. And then the wind died completely in a matter of less than a minute. Away went the oilies as the sun came out, down went the sails and on went the engine. And it remained that way all the way north to Pwllheli some 9 hours later. During which time the crew rested and more dolphins came to play!

On entering Pwllheli Marina, we filled up the diesel tanks, the second time we had done so on our 4 week passage. After topping up the fuel tanks we reversed Sulaire into her finger berth which would allow easier access over the stern for carrying laundry and bags ashore. We spent the next day cleaning the boat, doing laundry, filling the water tanks and making notes of items that would useful for our next passage north. We would be leaving Sulaire for a couple of weeks to head home by train to attend to a few appointments that were in the diary.

We'll be back aboard Sulaire on the 29th June for the final return legs of our Scilly trip bound for her home berth on the Clyde.

 

Milford Haven to Fishguard

 

There were fewer yachts at anchor in Dale than the last time we passed through - either because the need for a good sheltered anchorage wasn’t required or the Castlemartin Firing Range had taken out a few on their final approaches;). 

We had another late start in the morning so as to time our entry into the tidal gates at Jack and Ramsey Sounds as the stream turned northwards. So, in the dinghy we went to walk the third mate ashore. Once ashore we headed off on the north easterly path and quickly came across some perverts blocking the path with their tripods and enormous lenses mumbling something about “great tits”.

Back aboard Sulaire we made ready for our passage to Pwllheli - this time double checking we wouldn’t get shelled. As we approached Jack Sound the boat gained pace in a counter eddie but then began losing ground. I noticed a yacht in front had stuck close in to Skomer going through the sound so I did the same and we only lost a knot or so off our speed. The middle of the sound was clearly still going south, and strongly. I looked back at my calculations and it all appeared correct. Strange, the high pressure system must have delayed the north going tide. As we entered Ramsey sound an hour and a half later the tidal stream had firmly changed to north-going and we hurtled through at over 9 knots. The wind was on our tail and the two yachts in front raised their sails and cut their engines…race on! I kept the iron sail going, albeit at lower revs, hoisted main and genoa and slide past them. If you’ve got it, use it! Particularly if you’ve a dinner to cook followed by a trip ashore to replenish the stocks. Plus we would have glorious hot water heated by the engine for showers.

We pulled into the anchorage at Fishguard which is actually at the hamlet of Lower Town. We had visited Fishguard when driving around the area a few years ago and I was unimpressed but hadn’t realised there was another anchorage at Lower Town. Lovely, protected spot near the harbour that once homed a large herring fleet. We were in the company of 8 other yachts also making a passage stop for the night.  With plenty of room between us all we settled in for the night to the sound of kids giggling as they jumped off the harbour wall into the warm waters of Cardigan Bay…night…night!

Padstow to Milford Haven (Dale)

We awoke to another sun drenched day with the fog nowhere to be seen. Our passage to Dale would be another long one at 11 hours but we wouldn’t be setting off until the tidal streams were favourable at 1100. So we decided to attempt the steep, overgrown path up the cliffs of the next cove at high water. The ‘path’ up the rocks and a ravine up to the South West Coastal Path at the top was more overgrown than anticipated. We gingerly tried to avoid the nettles, brambles and break through the barrier of cow parsley in our shorts and t-shirts and I was sweating profusely by the time we reached the top. Relived we had made it we both started breaking out in large weals across our arms and legs.

We had an hours’ walk along the coast path, enjoying the views down into the various coves that dot the coast. After initially thinking it was nettle stings the weals got larger and became painfully itchy which we assume were caused by the cow parsley. 

We descended back to the cliff and met a fellow sailor on the small beach below who was about to make the same ascent. Warnings issued we headed back to the boat for antihistamine and lotion to ease the itching covering our limbs.

The passage north to Wales was blessed with glorious sunshine, although no wind, the whole way and we spent much of the trip reading and sunbathing on deck. The only distraction along the way as a pod of dolphins which escorted us for hours darting to and fro around Sulaire’s bow - dashing off to chase a shoal of fish before returning to their sentinel duties.

As we approached Milford Haven there was a crackle over the VHF “Sulaire, Sulaire, Sulaire…this is Castlemartin Range Control”..bugger, I had dismissed the range being operational at this time of night. We were requested to divert west and duly did so for 5nm before heading north into Dale as the sun set. We would have been within our rights to refuse to alter course but it would only add another 20 minutes to our passage and range control were friendly with their request so we complied.

A quick stroll ashore in the dimming light, and a Bea poo or two lighter, we headed back to Sulaire to turn in for the night with the ‘boom…boom’ barrage of the Castlemartin firing range reverberating around the bay…night…night.

St Ives Bay to Padstow

 

We emerged into the sunshine of St Ives Bay after the fog of the night before and jumped in the dinghy for a walk ashore before our passage to Travose Head near Padstow. After an hour or so on passage the fog started to close in around us and as we rounded Travose Head we couldn’t see more than 50m in front of us. 

We carefully followed the chart plotter and I double checked this with the radar. As I slowed into what appeared on the chart to be the anchorage the RNLI mooring buoy suddenly appeared dead in front of us with the headland rearing out of the fog. Into reverse, I slowed Sulaire and quickly became confused as the chartpotter froze. Adding to this confusion was the laughter of children echoing around the cliff face like some ghastly scene from a 1970s horror film. Back to the trusty magnetic compass to confirm which way we were heading. Once we had our bearings we decided that dropping the hook where we couldn’t see around us wasn’t the best idea so plan B was an hour further along the coast to Porth Quin.

After 10 minutes we were back in sunshine which aided our passage across Padstow Bay as we zig-zagged through pot buoys too many to count (but helpfully all were flagged making them much easier to see). An hour later we dropped the anchor in a beautiful cove with another yacht in the next cove. Our attempt to land ashore was thwarted by the sheer cliffs but it did look possible at low water - which we would try in the morning…night…night.

Scilly Friends for a week and heading back home

 

 

After a week exploring the Isles of Scilly on our own we were joined by Paul and Sam who come over on the Scillionian from Penzance. She’s a beautiful old girl who cuts a lovely line through the water with her classic shape. Unfortunately she is overdue to be replaced by a more modern model but for now she is a welcome sight, as are her cargo of playmates.

Over the next week we jointly explored the delights of Bryher, Tresco, St Mary’s, St Martin’s, St Agnes, Gugh and Samson islands. All with their own special characters from uninhabited Samson, which lost her last couple of families in the early 20th century, to St Martin’s which has one of the best views from any pub anywhere at The Seven Stones Inn. Our favourite was Bryher which has managed to continue to offer locals with a feel that the island is still primarily there for their wellbeing and support whilst also welcoming in tourists.

After our week with Paul and Sam we made Sulaire ship-shape and readied her for our passage home. Our first leg was across to North Cornwall to Godrevy Point in St Ives Bay. The forecast was for very settled conditions albeit with an onshore wind which ain’t ideal for anchoring but the winds were sufficiently light to allow some sleep to be had.

Oh and it was Lou’s birthday for our crossing so a silent request was made to Neptune who was gracious in gifting us safe passage.

Onwards up the North Cornwall coast tomorrow to an anchorage near Padstow. Fingers crossed for the settled weather to continue a little longer!